“Don't be afraid, baby, I will look after you,” whispered Naalika, stroking her stomach. The baby was restless and kicking hard, the noises of the war raging outside filtering through to his safe cocoon, loud and fearsome enough to scare the unborn child.

A decade ago staying as a guest in a tea plantation bungalow could only be arranged by getting to know the planter in residence. In our “Plantation Homes” series in The Sunday Times of February 9, 1997....