It’s Sri Pada season! Now would be the time to pull over a sweater (or two), slip on your trekking shoes and scale the fourth highest mountain in Sri Lanka.
During December to April the lights along the path to the top of Adam’s Peak (also known as Sri Pada and Samanalakanda) are switched on to guide the pilgrims as they scale the mountain as part of a religious ritual. That is a sight all by itself at 3am when you begin the accent.
The silhouette of the 2, 243 meter high mountain, against a deep blue sky and dotted with sparkly lights in a wavy pattern. It’s what a shutterbug’s dreams are made of. These particular six months are considered the best time to shin up as the weather in the area is most accommodating; during May the monsoon drifts in making it difficult, almost treacherous to climb. Besides, with good weather you have less cloud cover and a better chance at catching the breathtaking spectacle of the sunrise as it creeps over the peak.
The sunrise is by far the best I’ve seen yet; it makes the laborious accent that can leave your legs feeling like jelly, completely worth the aching joints and raw, biting cold. And in order to catch it you must prepare yourself.
What you need is warm clothing- it gets terribly nippy up there. Pack a snug warm sweater, a cap, a pair of good trekking shoes and a raincoat— just in case it rains. You’ll be starting your journey up at about 3am, so take some food with you- a bottle of water, sandwiches and light snacks for an energy boost. There are a few shops along the way but the prices of items are expensive as the “enterprising” locals make a few extra bucks off weary travellers.
There are six trails that you can take- each has a different level of difficulty. I’m going to tell you about one of the easier routes. Known as the Hatton- Nallathanni Trail, it starts off right at the foot of the mountain so you have a distance of about 6 km to the top. It should take you about 3 hours to reach the peak- the round trip being 6 hours give or take; generally climbing down is much faster.
This was a road trip I took with my family but I’ll suggest a possible route you could take via public transport. If you take the 9.45am Colombo Fort- Badulla train, you’ll reach Hatton by 2.30pm. A first class ticket would cost you Rs. 460. Once you get to Hatton you can take a bus leading from Dickoya to Maskeliya. From there take another bus up to Nallathanni. We stayed at the Punsisi Guesthouse which is a 2 minute walk to the foot of the mountain. Be sure to have a light dinner and turn in early; setting your alarm to sound off at 2am.
Waking up in the wee hours of the morning, shroud yourself in the warm clothing you’ve got, have a hot cup of tea and something light to eat before you set off. At the 3am, you can start your journey. There’s no chance you can wander off the trail as it’s marked out with steps. Steps of stone, earth, concrete; wide steps, steep steps, short steps. It’s steps—all the way to the top. Not the best for the knees of the uninitiated. There were several times I thought I’d finally reached the top but a few steps up would reveal the seemingly never ending lighted trail reaching into the dusky sky. Bleak as it may seem—remember that the sunrise at the peak will be worth it. You’ll know you’re getting closer when you see the Siddhalepa massage spot, they knead out any knots in your muscles; for a fee of course!.
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You should reach the summit at around 6am and if you were to look back, you’ll see a sheer drop winding down behind you. Good for pictures; though not so good for those who suffer from vertigo. Continue up towards to the flat landing. When you reach there, give yourself a pat on the back, find a spot to sit and watch as the sun claims the sky.
Extraordinary is how I’d describe it. As the sunrises, you’ll also notice the triangular shadow casted by the peak grow on the land below. On a very clear day, you might even be able to see Colombo from up there.
Heading back, I’d recommend the scenic route. On the opposite side is a trail down. This is a more dirt road, with steps appearing only occasionally. There’s a lot more wild life and scenery to soak up along this route with several temples along the way to keep you on track.
For a few extra tips, I’d recommend that you pick a day that isn’t a public holiday or the weekend—preferably. Or else the pace of your journey will be restricted as many devotees flock to make their pilgrimage during this time to worship the sacred footprint. Always, always remember not to litter. Carry empty water bottles and food wrappers down with you and dispose of them when you return. Also, keep in mind that we’ve been having unpredictable weather lately, so check what the forecast looks like before planning your trek. Till next time, happy trekking!
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